Blog with "on Denali" updates
From ESS
-- Liz Davis
If you want to send greetings to the team please sign the Guestbook.
June 9, 2007
Ok, in case you missed it, check out the Denali wiki's main page (back up once from this field) for a link to some of my pictures and final summary report. If any of the expedition members want to post a link to their pictures, just hit edit (above), make-up a login name and password if needed, and follow the example of how I linked my pictures to the wiki. Put your link just after mine. Call me with questions, etc. (970-641-3953). Also, check out Western's home web page (www.western.edu) for a highlighted glimpse of our Denali expedition.
Happy Trails,
Scott
June 1, 2007
Hello from Anchorge and Wil, Kim, & Cai's house. We made it back safe and sound. No injuries or severe sicknesses. I just wish the weather had treated us better after Ben, Jake, & Nate R's summit push. We all got above 14,200 camp and then the high winds, clouds, drifts, and cold temps hit...slated to stay through this weekend. I'll have more of the story later, so stay tuned. Also, I'm working to get pictures up!! Cheers, Scott
May 31, 2007 (11:00 p.m. Mountain Time)
Well, Here it is ladies and gentlemen, the time you have all been waiting for, the conclusion to the Western Alpineer Denali Expedition. It was a long haul but someone had to do it, (or Nate, Ben and Jake that is.)
Thats right climbing fans, the first group that went up had great climbing weather and made it to the 20,000' summit! YIPPPPEEEEEEEEEE! WAY TO GO GUYS! Everyone did such a great job, I can't wait to see pictures. The group made an all night push on three hours of sleep to base camp and made it out of Talkitna today. When I talked to Scott he was on the plane headed to Anchorage. There were a few others with him and I'm sure family and friends got a few phone calls this evening. WAY TO GO! Have a beer, get some sleep and we will see you all in a week.
Cheers Friends!
Signing off from Gunnison, Colorado
Lizzy D.
May 28, 2007
Hello all you Denali fans, I have to first appologize for being out of commission for the past couple of days. My message from Scott was short and sweet two days ago, everyone is doing fine except for the occasional altitude sickness setting in on a couple of climbers. (Scott included) The rest of the team went to 17,000 ft. the other day and Scott and Stuart were waiting another day till they felt better to go meet the gang. He said that at the middle of this week they are going to try and make the push for the summit. After he said that the phone cut out. I know he is trying to save the batteries so he may not call for a couple of days. Hopefully they will be able to call from the summit(who knows, there might be better reception). Thanks to everyone sending blogs, emails, and comments. There is someone on top of organizing this site so all of your comments and best wishes to the team have been archived in the guestbook.
Thanks,
Lizzy.
May 23, 2007 (16,000 ft)
I talked to Scott last night, and although the satellite phone went out 4 times, I am happy to report that they are going to wait for a weather window and early next week try and go for the summit. Yesterday was windy and there was some snow. They unburried the food they had cached away and today they were going to make camp at 16,000'. After they reach that milestone they are going to acclimate for a few days and read some books, play some cribbage, and eat lots of food. Some of the kids have the sniffles but overall everyone is feeling good. He also wanted me to let you all know that the sun never sets, so they haven't had to use their headlamps yet.
I will hear from them in a couple of days, he is going to try to save the batteries on the phone.
More from Denali in a couple of days...
Sincerely, Liz Davis
May 20, 2007 (11,200 ft)
At about 8:30PM Alaska time, Scott called and said they were at 11,200' camp. Everyone is feeling good. The weather is great, it is sunny and warm. They have stashed their gear in a cache, so they would not have to take so much to the next camp at 14,200'. They will reach that camp tomorrow and will stay there for the next couple of days to acclimate. In the mean time, the others wanted to pass along messages to their friends and family:
- Sara: "I will bring home pictures, but they won't do this place justice"
- Walker: "What a humbling experience, I miss you all."
- Derek: "Sunburned, cracked lips, soggy feet, lovin' life."
- Jake: "I'm so sunburned."
- L.V.: "This is the good life."
- Nate: "I'm doing great, love you all."
- Stuart: "Love you, can't wait to see you."
- Ben: "Safe and healthy, talk in a month."
- Steve: "Things better than expected, and I'm having fun!"
- Nathan S.: "I'm great, and having fun."
- Evan: "Love it here, love you guys, I'm cold."
More from Denal at 14200' camp in the next couple of days.
May 18, 2007 (9,000 ft)
Scott called today, I wasn't home but my father took the message. They are at 9800' the third camp. Everyone is ok. Weather is the same - cloudy, and more snow. Visibility is 100 yds. Climbed 2,000' today and everyone is great, moral is high. The cancer survivor (Sean) who was climbing denali before the western state group started passed them on the way down, Scott doesn't know if he summited or not. Although he said that it was very cold further up on top and the sun and radiation are intense. He will call back in two days.
More from Scott Drum on the Denali trip later.
-- Liz Davis
May 17, 2007 (7,800 ft)
The Climbers were at the 7800'camp today. Scott said it was a long day, they spent 7-8 hours training. Weather was cloudy again. Tomorrow they are moving to the 9800' camp. Everyone is doing well and are in hi spirits. The learning curve is high with using their sleds and skis today. Oh, and I almost forgot to mention that our girl Sarah is learning how to pee standing up. (Using a funnel.)
Love you guys.
May 16, 2007 (8:00PM, Basecamp)
Arrived last night on the glacier and everyone is at base-camp today. 5 hours of today was spent practicing crevice rescue. Everyone is in good spirits and sweating. Scott said although the clouds are still lingering it was very HOT on the glacier (but I’m sure they will need some sweaters tonight.)
Tomorrow they plan on hiking to camp at 7800 feet (not too far off from Gunnison, they should be acclimated quite nicely)
More news from Denali tomorrow…
May 15, 2007 (5:00PM, Talkeetna)
Scott and the others are in Talkeetna today and are planning on flying into the glacier this evening. They have will be flying in an 8 seater plane as well as a 4 seater and will leave after the 45 minute run through about waste disposal and rescue (among other things) at the ranger station. Everyone is ancsious and in good spirits. The weather is partly cloudy and they haven’t even seen the mountain yet.
May 15, 2007 (12:42AM, Talkeetna)
Whew. It definitely feels late, although the sun only set about an hour ago. Wil gave a fantastic lesson late this evening on team/expedition dynamics and what it means to use positive psychology. I think we all have a solid sense of what is expected of each team member. To underscore our appreciation for one another, Wil had us tape a blank page of paper to our backs except for one unfinished phrase written at the top - "I am thankful to you for ..." - then we each finished the phrase with a positive statement by writing on each blank page! Truly each of us has a role on this expedition, including looking out for one another. I know that we certainly have enough food for well over 21 days, but the most important aspect of our trip is to have fun while enjoying incredible mountains and friendships.
Right now I'm not that nervous, just excited. Excited to see the Kahiltna Glacier for the first time and get a perspective on the route. Excited to be in a position to test human physiology while contemplating the meaning of our trip. For now it's the process of preparing and implementing that is the most rewarding.
I am thankful for...a wonderful team with its unusual characters. Steve for his attention to detail and expertise as a mountain guide, Nate R. for his laid back nature and leadership skills, Ben for his strong character and technical climbing prowess, Walker for his high energy and uncanny sense of humor, Jake for his strength and intelligence, Sara for her razor sharp wit and gentle nature, LB for his dedication to detail and fun loving ways, Derek for his quiet/contemplative persona and willingness to always help, Nathan S. for his focussed drive and voice of reason, Evan for his unstoppable humor and appreciation for great views, and Stu for his down to earth personality and always knowing his limits.
Stay tuned for reports from the ice and snow!
Cheers,
Scott
May 14, 2007 (Anchorage)
Report from LB. Its one o'clock here in Alaska. The team is currently scattered across Anchorage doing last minute things. Everything is coming together great. The bindings are being mounted, the food we have is packed. The rest of the team is out getting food. Alaska is amazing so far; even though we havent gotten out of Anchorage yet. Walker, Sara, Jake, Evan and I spent yesterday riding bikes around the town. Then we went sight-seeing with Scott and saw lots of moose. I have already lost count of how many moose I've seen. Only a couple more days before we get on the mountain. The team is feeling strong and ready to go. "the waiting is the hardest part". Well time to start organizing gear for the fifth time. Peace LB
May 13, 2007 (Anchorage)
Another whirlwind few days. I think the hardest part so far is the lack of sleep and containing the feelings of anticipation about landing on a glacier, dealing with harsh weather, going to high altitude, and navigating around hidden crevices.
As of now most of the gang is here (Walker, Stuart, Jake, Sara, Nate R., LB, Evan, and Ben). I've been staying with my friends (Wil, Kimberly, and their son Cai) and Ben with his friend, John. Steve, Nathan S., and Derek get in to Anchorage tonight around 10:30PM. Steve has arranged to be picked up by friends who'll drive him and the others to the hostel. I'll be with Wil and Kim another night or two. Tomorrow we hit the ground running at 8:00AM. Lots to do. We'll start with getting the Silvretta bindigs mounted at a local climbing store (AMH), going for snack food, and dividing up our 232 lbs of freezed dried food stored (right now) on a wooden pallet in back of the hostel. Tuesday, then, we plan to leave Anchorage around 8:00AM for Talkeetna.
As for the local sights we've been enchanted by the Chugach Mtns surrounding town, the Knik and Turnagain arms (salt water), and the many moose dashing around the city. I've seen 6 moose so far, one of which I ran into tonight with Nate R., Stu, Evan, LB, and Walker while Jake and Sara contemplated fish for dinner back at the hostel.
For sure everyone is excited to get on the mountain. We haven't seen Denali yet because of cloud cover, but the weather is looking up!
Cheers,
Scott and the Gang!
May 11, 2007 (Gunnison)
Just picked up Evan's skis by his condo in Gunnison and am on my way (soon) to grab Ben then head to Denver and DIA. I think the trip is starting to sink in...it's going to be an adventure packed next few weeks. According to Wil and his wife, Kimberly, the weather has been a bit unsettled in Anchorage as of late, but it's looking up for next week. However, you never know what you're gonna' get weather-wise in the mountains, especially on Denali, where the winds have been as high as 65 mph (according to the NOAA weather site). Well, safe travels to all and see you "up North!"
Scott
May 10, 2007 (Gunnison)
Today was hectic. I hope everyone’s gear is ready to go. Both of my check-in bags weigh close to 50 lbs a piece or greater. I think the additional gear sorting process in Anchorage will be interesting, especially because my bags don't yet include food and fuel, etc. It's interesting to note that the Talkeetna Air Taxi (TAT) does not encourage fuel aboard the plane from town to the glacier. If a person is taking fuel they have to sit with it on their lap and throw it out the window if the landing appears rough or the plane is going down...or so I've heard. On that note, I hope everyone has a safe trip to Anchorage. See you all by Sunday, May 13. I'll be staying with my friend, Wil Rickards, an outdoor educator working at the University of Alaska - Anchorage, for a few days. I think I may be going to a 2-year old birthday party for a while on Saturday with Wil and his young son, Cai. Good night!
Scott
May 9, 2007 (Gunnison)
I picked up the satellite phone from Layne Nelson, Director of Extended Studies at Western. The sat. phone's telephone number is: 8816 3157-2060. To call the sat. phone from a landline, there are two options:
(1) Direct Dialing. This is an international call. From the USA please dial (011)+8816+3157-2060. Call charges to the phone are paid by the originator (call charges vary widely from $2.00 to $7.00 per minute, contact your long distance carrier for specific rates). The user of the sat. phone is not charged for this type of call.
(2) Satellite Network. Anyone calling from a landline or cellular phone may dial the satellite network at 1-480-768-2500. A recording will answer "Welcome to the Iridium Satellite Global Network." Enter the sat. phone's 12 digit satellite phone number 8816-3157-2060. Note: the call will be completed only if the sat. phone is powered up and locked on to the satellite signal (requires being outdoors and away from large structures or trees). The orginator will pay a long distance charge to Arizona and the sat. phone will be billed at $2.49/minute.
Remember, I'll attempt to call Liz daily with updates from the glacier so that she can blog on this page about our progress. My plan is to have the phone powered up daily around 6:00/7:00PM Alaska time (two hours behind mountain standard time) from about May 16/17 to June 10. I hope this works.
Scott
May 8, 2007 (Gunnison)
I checked Sean Swarner's web site (cancerclimber.com) this morning and he and his party have been in Camp 3 for over 3-days. It appears that "slab" conditions are developing on Motorcycle Hill, a landmark "climb" on the West Buttress Rt. The overall weather at this point according to NOAA through Saturday/Sunday on Denali is a "chance of snow." Hopefully by next Wed. (May 16) when we're ready to fly into the Kahiltna Glacier "airport," the skis will be agreeable. Currently it's another great day in Gunnison, CO with clear, cold "AM" skis. A perfect day for a little running, working, and packing! Lastly, as I talked with Sara Smith yesterday, it seems that we shouldn't forget the "baby wipes," which are like gold on the mountain! According to a good friend of Sara's, who has been on Denali three times, staying clean is a luxury well worth its weight in some sort of clean wipes!!
Good day,
Scott
May 7, 2007 (Gunnison)
The day (Sunday, May 13) we meet in Anchorage as a team is fast approaching. Last minute preparations are under way. It appears that the team's Silvretta bindings have not arrived in Steve's hands, but should be here soon. I plan to get Evan's bindings mounted by this Wed/Th. in Gunnison before heading to Denver on Friday. If anyone needs to get a hold of me at any time please call my cell at 970-371-2620.
Cheers,
Scott
